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  • 11Jun

    The International Quilt Study Center

    Antique Fabrics, General Quilting & FUN, Quilt Tips and Ideas, Restore a Quilt No Comments

    The International Quilt Study Center and Museum of the University of Nebraska-Lincoln is a place unlike any other.  The institution is devoted to the research, preservation, and display of  over 2300 quilts, and works diligently to study the cultural, social, and political history which is hidden within the stitches of every beautifully pieced quilt.  Besides the research center and museum, the center also hosts a wonderful website where the collections of quilts can be viewed digitally, giving those who do not have the opportunity to make the trip a chance to learn about quilting history.

    The International Quilt Study Center and Museum got its start when the generous Ardis and Robert James donated their collection of 950 stunning quilts to the University of Nebraska-Lincoln in 1997.  This donation was backed by substantial monetary support, and the center has grown to become the leader in quilt studies.  The center has published several books, with the most recent one published in 2003.

    While the International Quilt Study Center and Museum welcomes all visitors, it is also a part of the Department of Textiles, Clothing, and Design in the University of Nebraska-Lincoln.  Here, it is possible for a student to obtain a Master of Arts degree in textile history, with an emphasis on quilt studies.

    For the visitor to the museum, there are a variety of tour options.  Guided tours are offered Wednesdays and Saturdays year round.  Group tours are also available by reservation.  Six to eight exhibits are displayed each year, with fifteen to twenty quilts in each exhibit, all researched with diligent care.  For any quilt enthusiast, a visit to the International Quilt Study Center and Museum will be an enriching and valuable experience.

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  • 09Jun

    Quilt Sizes: Make Your Quilt Fit

    General Quilting & FUN, Quilt Tips and Ideas No Comments

    Quilt patterns may offer instructions for different size quilts, and usually the sizes are given in inches. Standard sizes such as twin, full, queen, or king are often arbitrary.

    If you are making a bed quilt for a specific bed/mattress, here are the basic measurements you will need:

    * Measure the top of the mattress from side to side and head to foot.
    * With so many different thicknesses of mattresses available now, you must measure the thickness and add that twice, once for the “drop” on each side. Add 4-6″ extra for an additional 2-3″ coverage on each side. Be sure that your quilt will cover the springs and the entire bed frame, or will come to the top of the dust ruffle if you have one.
    * Add the mattress thickness plus additional coverage to the length for the drop at the foot of the bed.
    * Decide if you want the quilt to include a pillow-fold, and add at least an extra 24″ to the length to accommodate that.

    Other details you will need to consider when you design your quilt are the type of bed frame. If there is a solid footboard, you may need to adjust the length. A four-poster type of frame may require that you split the corners at the foot so the quilt will hang neatly on either side of the post.

    You may decide to make a full length quilt that will hang to the floor all around. Usually a full length quilt is finished at 1-2 inches from the floor.

    If you are using a pattern or published design, and the size doesn’t match your needs, there is a simple way to adjust the size of the quilt. Trying to resize the blocks to fit will be very difficult in most cases, and it makes following the instructions confusing. An easy way to enlarge the quilt is to simply make the border wider, or add another border to make the size you need. If you need to add a pillow-fold to the length, add another row of quilt blocks to continue the design.

    If you need to make the quilt smaller, omit borders or make them narrower. You can also omit rows of blocks if it doesn’t spoil the overall design.

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  • 31May

    Quilt Binding

    General Quilting & FUN, Quilt Tips and Ideas No Comments

    Binding is the last step in finishing your quilt. Many quilters decide on their binding fabric when they select the fabrics for the quilt, and others wait until the quilt is ready for the binding to be applied to select a fabric. Experienced quilters know that the way a quilt looks can change throughout the quilt-making process, and sometimes an entirely unplanned splash of color along the edge will complete the quilt perfectly.

    Quilt binding on antique quilts was usually cut on straight grain fabric. The folded edge of straight grain fabric is prone to wear along the fold. During the 1920s and 1930s it became popular for quilters to use bias strips of fabric for binding. The folded edge was a crossing of two woven threads, and was not as apt to wear as quickly as straight grain. The bias strip offered flexibility and smooth coverage for the popular curves and shaped edges which were so fashionable on the quilts of that era.

    Pre-cut bias tape quilt binding is commercially available in packages, usually in solid colors, for quilters who want a fast and easy binding strip. The quality of packaged bias binding may not be the same as the quality of the fabrics in your quilt. Many quilters use a fabric from the quilt top or a coordinating fabric and cut a bias binding of their own to assure uniform quality throughout their quilt.

    To apply quilt binding, the edges of all three quilt layers must first be trimmed even. Quilt binding is typically sewn to the front of the quilt using about a 1/2″ seam allowance through all layers. Then the extended binding edge is folded over the edge of the quilt and stitched in place on the back, either by hand or by machine. Finished quilt binding can be a narrow 1/2″ or so. Wider binding strips can be used, but they may be impractical to replace when they become worn. If you want to use a wide binding strip, you need to plan for it when you create the outer border and border quilting designs.

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  • 29May

    The Aesthetics of Quilt Sashing

    General Quilting & FUN, Quilt Tips and Ideas No Comments

    Sashing is a very common element in quilting and is used to divide quilt blocks, making for an elegant and exact pattern. Quilt sashing is made of strips of fabric which harmonize with the colors and patterns of the quilt blocks. This technique allows each block to stand out individually and showcases elegant and intricate block patterns while preventing the entire quilt from looking too busy or overbearing. Sashing is often made from solid colored fabrics or subtly patterned fabrics, depending upon the quilter’s preference.

    Sashing is not difficult to add to your quilt. Sashing strips are inserted between the blocks when the rows are being sewn together. It is important, however, to make sure the the sashing strips are of a uniform width which will suit the quilt you are making. The most difficult part of making a quilt with sashing is ensuring absolute accuracy in both the size of the quilt blocks and the sashing. Inaccurately sized pieces will leave the quilt looking rather odd and imbalanced. Since accuracy is so important, the length of all the strips of sashing should be exact. One way to ensure this is to cut the strips slightly longer than necessary, sew them to the quilt block as usual, and then trim them to exactly the length that is needed.

    Sashing can also be spruced up with cornerstones. Cornerstones are squares of different fabric added at the corners of the squares of sashing. These can really bring some added aesthetic value to a quilt and if, for instance, you run out of sashing fabric while quilting, they can be added to finish the quilt flawlessly.

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  • 23May

    Quilting Stencils

    General Quilting & FUN, Quilt Tips and Ideas No Comments

    Use a quilt stencil to produce amazing designs for your quilt top. A quilt stencil is a plastic sheet with small punched holes illustrating the markings for your quilting stitches. You can use stencils for either machine quilting or hand quilting.

    Quilt stencils come in an array of styles. There are several ways to mark your quilt top using stencils. Traditional “brush-away” methods are chalk, soapstone, soap, and powdered “pounce” methods (which use a chalk powder). Try the special quilt marking pencils which are available in several colors for use on different colored fabrics, or try one of the new fabric marking pens. The new fabric pens use special inks that either disappear a few hours after the ink dries, or they disappear when touched with cold water. It is not a good idea to use regular pencils because the lead marks are difficult to remove. Regular pens will NOT wash out, and they may bleed or run when you wash your quilt, leaving permanent stains.

    Quilting stencils save you time in selecting, drawing, and transferring the design onto your quilt top. Stencils help you keep all of your markings uniform and evenly spaced. Make your own stencil from your computer clip art by printing it on a plastic overlay sheet. Punch small holes through the plastic along the marking lines to transfer your marks through. A tiny pointed wood-burner tip is one way to melt a nice sized hole with smooth edges. Place a heat-proof surface under the plastic sheet if you use this method.

    Some quilt stencils are for continuous line quilting designs. A continuous line design is one that you can use to machine quilt. There are no breaks in the stitching line, so you can sew continuous repeating designs without stopping and starting. These are available online, in many books, and at quilt shops. Once you study continuous line designs, you may want to make your own.

    There are alignment marks on stencils so you can repeat them for unbroken patterns. Once the stencil has been traced, move it to the next area and line up the marks. Then trace the next section. This is especially useful when marking borders. If you purchase stencils for your borders, look for corresponding corner stencils, too. These will bring the border designs from both sides together at the corners with a smooth transition.

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  • 21May

    Hand Quilting Methods and Benefits

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    Traditional hand quilting is a labor-intensive process requiring time and patience. Machine quilting may be faster, but the tighter stitches can pull and break if the quilt is used on a bed that is slept in. Properly executed hand quilting allows slight shifting as a quilt is wrapped around and moved under without breaking the thread. Over time, washing and use can create a patina finish that only occurs with hand quilting. The tiny puckers that develop along stitching lines give a quilt character, and use will make it softer. Hand quilting can last for decades if the quilt is treated with care. Never machine wash or machine dry a hand quilted quilt.

    If you are accomplished at hand sewing, you should have little difficulty learning the art of hand quilting. Practice will change frustration into satisfaction when your end result is nice, even stitches. It’s a good idea for beginners to start with a small project, perhaps a baby quilt or a small wall quilt. Use a simple quilting design; straight lines are a good way to learn hand quilting. If you need to mark the quilting design on your project, use a chalk pencil or other removable marker. Try a special disappearing pen made just for fabrics. A regular pencil is difficult to remove. Never use a regular pen, because the ink will not wash out, and it may run and smear.

    Prepare your project for hand quilting by layering the top, batting, and backing together. You can baste the layers together to keep them from slipping, or try safety pins. There are specially shaped safety pins made just for quilt basting which allow you to pin through the thick layers. Place the prepared quilt in your hoop or frame. The stitching surface should have a little “give” and not be too tight. Use a single strand of quality quilting thread with a small quilter’s knot at one end. Pull the knot through one layer of fabric so it is embedded in the batting and is invisible from the outside of the quilt. Quilting stitches are made by “rocking” the needle. The down stitch should be straight down through all layers until you feel the needle tip with your “underneath fingers” and then rock the needle until the tip passes to the top again. Practice loading 3 or 4 small stitches onto the needle at one time, and then gently pull the thread through. The thread should lie flat, and the quilting should not be too tight or appear gathered.

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  • 14May

    Quilt Batting

    General Quilting & FUN, Quilt Tips and Ideas No Comments

    Quilt Question:
    What are some differences in types of quilt batting?

    Quilt Answer:
    Quilt batting is the middle layer of the quilt. Batting varies in type of fiber and loft. The most common natural fiber used for quilt batting is cotton, but you can also find it made from silk, alpaca, bamboo, polyester, wool or blends of fibers. Any type of fiber batting can be used in any quilt, but it is usually a good idea to match the content of the fabrics with the content of the batting. For example, wool batting is used with cotton fabrics when more warmth with lighter weight is desired. Fibers that seem unique to American quilters, such as alpaca and bamboo, can be compared to wool and cotton. The animal and plant fiber sources are similar to their counterparts. Alpaca and bamboo are just not as common in the US since they are not grown here commercially.

    Quilt Batting, buy here PIC link

    Cotton batting is the favorite of most quilters. It is available in several different lofts. It may be wispy-thin for summer quilts or those quilts where very delicate stitching will be done, or it may have a very high loft which gives the finished quilt lots of body and greater insulation properties. Organic cotton batting is available now, so you can use a natural product that has been grown and processed with environmental consciousness.

    Wool batting is also made in several lofts. A low loft wool batting offers more insulation and  warmth than comparable low loft cotton, and for a thick, puffy quilt using a natural fiber, a high loft wool will be perfect. Wool is also easy to hand quilt.

    Silk is the most expensive batting. It is the best type to use with silk fabrics, such as a crazy quilt. Of course, you can use a silk batting with any fabrics, and a silk batting used with premium cotton fabrics will give your quilt a luxurious feel that has wonderfully soft draping qualities.

    Polyester batting is cheap, and some quilting purists scoff at its use because it is not a natural fiber. Polyester batting gives off trace amounts of chemicals which, over time, actually speed up the deterioration of cotton or other natural fibers in the fabric of a quilt. So if you are creating an heirloom quilt, choose a natural fiber batting for the longest life of the textiles. However, polyester does have its place. It is readily available and it quilts well and holds its shape. The biggest asset I know of with polyester batting is that it launders well and dries fast. I like it in sturdy, machine quilted quilts that will be USED just because of its laundering benefits.

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  • 13May

    Quilt Fabrics

    General Quilting & FUN, Quilt Tips and Ideas No Comments

    Quilt Question:
    What kind of fabric should I use to make a quilt?

    Quilt Answer:
    Cotton is the most commonly used fabric for quilting. It is a soft, breathable, natural fiber, and it launders well. Cotton fabrics are easy to work with, and fewer people have allergies or skin problems associated with cotton than any other fiber. Cotton is the most widely used fabric in the world, not just for quilting. There is a huge selection of cotton fabrics at a relatively low cost. Cottons fabrics are printed and dyed in a fantastic array of designs and patterns, whether batik or baby prints or reproductions of antique fabrics.

    cotton quilt fabric (PIC)  Reproduction of a 1930s Feedsack fabric.

    Many quilters use wool fabrics for the warmth they provide. In the 19th century, wool was the quilt fabric of choice in many northern, cold climate areas. This was partly due to the fact that cotton was grown in the south and wool was often obtained from northern sheep and northern wool mills. Woolen fabrics today are still used for quilt making. There are lovely wool challis and light weight suitings that are ideal for quilting.

    Silk fabrics are becoming more available and affordable in the US, and their popularity for quilting has increased. Special sewing techniques are often needed when working with silk fabrics if they are a slippery weave. Silk thread and a small size needle should always be used with silk fabric.

    It is important to many quilters to use organic fabrics. The textile industry uses lots of chemicals in growing and processing plant and animal fibers, and the dyeing and printing processes use many chemicals, too. There are environmentally friendly alternatives, and by asking for them, quilters can impact the market.

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  • 02May

    How to Fix a “Bird’s Nest” of Thread When Sewing

    General Quilting & FUN, Quilt Tips and Ideas, Sewing Machine Tips No Comments

    Sewing Machine Tip

    Quilt Question: When I sew, the top thread looks ok, but the back of the piece is a tangle of thread. What’s wrong and how do I fix this?

    Quilt Answer: This is known as a “Bird’s Nest” for obvious reasons. Check these things on your machine:

    •    Be sure the upper thread is threaded correctly. The best way to check this is to unthread and rethread it.

    •    Be sure that the needle in installed correctly and is tightly in place.

    •    Check the bobbin. Be sure the bobbin is inserted in the case facing the correct direction, and be sure the thread passes through the tension area of the bobbin case correctly. Make sure the bobbin case is in the machine correctly. You might as well clean out the bobbin area while you’re checking it.

    •    When you’ve checked all of the above, try adjusting the upper tension. Be sure that the thread lies between the tension disks. It should pull freely, but with a little resistance from the tension. On some machines the presser foot must be in the UP position for the tension disks to be loosened, so rethread making sure the presser foot is UP and that the needle is as far UP as it goes on its cycle. Then adjust the tension a tiny bit at a time. Sew a small test swatch after each adjustment until the stitches are formed correctly.

    Tip: If you are having problems with a straight stitch, use the straight stitch settings for your tests. If the problem is with a specialty stitch, be sure to use that stitch setting for your adjustments and testing.

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  • 24Feb

    Quilt Question: What are the Standard Mattress Sizes?

    General Quilting & FUN, Quilt Tips and Ideas No Comments

    Quilt Question:
    What are the different sizes of mattresses? Sometimes the small quilt sizes are confusing, because they are throws and not sized for real beds.

    Quilt Answer:
    You are correct, there are many odd sizes of quilts in the patterns today. Even a pattern that is labeled as “Queen” may not fit your mattress. Besides the length and width of the top of the mattress, you need to allow for the drop on the sides, and whether or not you want to have enough quilt for a pillow-fold at the top.

    Here are the standard mattress sizes, in US inches, giving the measurements of the length and width of the mattress.

    Standard Bed Sizes in US inches:

    Mattress Size

    Length

    Width

    Crib

    52 inches

    28 inches

    Twin

    75 inches

    39 inches

    Extra Long Twin (some dorm beds)

    80 inches

    39 inches

    Full / Double

    75 inches

    54 inches

    Queen

    80 inches

    60 inches

    California King

    84 inches

    72 inches

    Regular King

    80 inches

    78 inches



    If your mattress is an extra deep one, or if you will have a foam top or featherbed on the mattress, be sure to add extra for the additional drop on the sides. If you are using a pattern for standard sizes, you can easily add the increase by adding another border. It is probably not a good idea to try to resize quilt pieces!

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